Apricot "Countess": characteristics of the variety and the rules of cultivation

Known in Moscow and Moscow region apricot variety - Countess. In the article you can find its description, advantages and disadvantages. How to plant and what to do next. The intricacies of care, ranging from watering and top dressing, ending with trimmings and crown formation. The main diseases and pests of this apricot, and, of course, measures to combat them are considered.

Grade description

The Countess apricot variety was obtained in 1998 and entered into the State Register in 2004 in the Central Region. Initially, it was intended for Moscow and the Moscow region, where it is most common. The tree is tall, strong-growing, with powerful shoots and a round, well-leafy crown. If you do not carry out forming pruning in a timely manner, it can grow more than six meters high.

2-3 days after the beginning of flowering of other varieties, the Countess blooms. The tree is covered with many small flowers with underdeveloped stamens. The variety is self-fertile and requires pollinators. In their quality, the varieties are best:

• Lel;
• Favorite;
• Triumph of the North;
• Monastic.
  

  Apricot Countess blooms 2-3 days later than other varieties

Immaturity is good, the first fruits ripen for 3-4 years after vaccination. Ripening occurs by the end of summer.

Berries of medium size 20-25 g, in the case of a small crop can reach 30-35 g. Fruits are characterized by some pubescence, a yellowish color with a slight blush. Juicy, tasty pulp with a thin skin, with a well-detachable, large bone.

I have years at the Countess apricot small, light cream, with a red blush

The fruits are well transported, stored at a temperature of +10 ° C for up to 20 days, and at 0 ° C up to 40 and even 60 days.

With good care, the crop is 70 kg / ha.

The variety has increased frost resistance, tolerates frosts well up to -30 ° C, but, like other representatives of this species, flower buds can be affected during early return frosts.

In rainy years, it is strongly affected by kleasterosporiosis, from which fruits suffer en masse.

Planting of the Countess's apricot

Planting an apricot of this variety will not cause difficulties for an experienced gardener and is quite possible for a beginner. How to plant a tree correctly and prevent mistakes in this - in the step-by-step instructions below.

1. The first thing that starts the process of planting any tree, including the countess apricot, is the choice of a suitable place. The variety, although it has high frost resistance, but in the early years needs to be protected from cold winds and freezing. To do this, it is better to choose a place on the south or southwest small slope (10-15 °), protected from the wind by natural barriers, for example, trees, buildings, a fence. If there are none, a young seedling will have to be covered with a spanbond for the winter or equipped around it with a hut made of branches, film or other improvised means.
   

   The young countess apricot trees for the winter need to be protected from frost and hares

2. For spring planting (namely at this time it is best to plant apricot), seedlings should be purchased in the fall, at a time when there is a massive trade in planting material. Healthy plants are chosen at the age of one to two years with well-developed roots.
3. For storage, the roots of the seedlings are dipped in a mash of red clay and mullein in approximately equal proportions, placed in a humid environment, for example, wrapped in wet burlap, and in a plastic, loose-sealed bag, they are lowered into the cellar or basement. And also it is possible to store seedlings buried in the ground, covering for the winter with spruce branches, snow, etc. It is not necessary to get seedlings prematurely in the spring. This is done immediately before planting, since the seedlings must remain at rest, so they will better take root.
   

   So they plant seedlings for the winter

4. Pits for planting are also being prepared since the fall. The size of the pit should be at least 70-80 cm in depth and the same in diameter. Part of the soil from the upper, fertile layer is returned to the bottom of the finished hole. Then there you need to add a few buckets of humus or compost (you can both), a couple of liters of wood ash and 300 g of double superphosphate. Mix everything well and cover until spring with some waterproof material for better preservation of nutrients.
5. In the spring, before the sap flow begins, but when the threat of return frosts has passed, they begin to land. On the mound formed in the pit, place the root neck of the seedling so that it is several centimeters below the soil level, and the roots are spread around the mound. It should be remembered that the vaccination site should not be buried. Apricots often suffer from aging, so the vaccine should not be lower (or better above) 5 cm above the soil surface. After that, they gently fill the pit with earth, slightly tamping.
   

   The root neck of an apricot seedling is placed on top of the knoll and the roots are carefully straightened
6. Now it is necessary to draw up a near-trunk circle with an earthen roller along the diameter of the pit and carefully water the tree.
7. The last step is to cut the seedling to a height of 60-80 cm and tie it to a peg driven in advance next to it. If there are branches, shorten them by a third.

Features of cultivation and subtleties of care

Apricot Countess does not require any special care methods. It is not difficult to grow it, for this, conventional types of care are used, this:

• watering;
• top dressing;
• trimming.

How and when to water the Countess apricot

Apricot does not like dampness and high humidity. In such conditions, the roots and part of the trunk are often warmed up, and the tree is also affected by fungal diseases, especially kleasterosporiosis.

Therefore, apricot is rarely watered, but abundantly. The soil should be soaked to a depth of 30-40 cm, with autumn watering - up to 60 cm. The next day, the near-stem circle is loosened to provide oxygen to the roots.

Apricot watering terms:

1. In the spring, during the flowering period or immediately after its end.
2. In early summer, when there is a maximum increase in shoots.
3. In late summer, two weeks before harvest.
4. In late autumn, before leaving for the winter.

It is clear that if it rains during these periods, then watering is excluded.

What and when to feed the Countess apricot

Fertilizers planted during planting will be enough for a young tree before fruiting. By the time the first berries appear, supplementary feeding will need to be made periodically. The issue of nutrition should be approached carefully, to avoid overdoses that can harm the plant. Before applying this or that fertilizer, you need to carefully study the instructions for it.

Table: types of dressings and the timing of their application

What types of scraps are carried out on the Countess apricot

Pruning is an integral and important part of apricot care.

How the crown of the apricot Countess is formed

For tall trees, to which this variety belongs, a sparse-tier crown shape is usually used. This is the most important type of pruning, which is already started when planting a seedling. Next, they act like this:

1. Upon reaching the age of one year, you need to choose the best 2-3 branches. They should grow in different directions from the trunk and be from each other at a distance of 20-30 cm. The lower branch should be at a level of 30-40 cm from the ground. These branches, as well as the central conductor, are shortened by 30%, and the latter should be 30-40 cm higher than the upper branch. The rest are cut "into a ring".
2. At the age of two, you need to form a second tier of 2-3 branches according to the same scheme as the first. 2-3 strong, multidirectional branches are selected, the rest are cut out, and the central conductor is also shortened. Branches grown on skeletal shorten by 30%.
3. At the age of three, a third tier is formed and the central conductor above the upper skeletal branch is completely cut out. The formation is over.
   

   By the fourth or fifth year of life, the apricot crown is fully formed

When forming the crown, the principle of subordination must be observed, namely, that the skeletal branches of the second tier should be shorter than the branches of the first, and the branches of the third tier, shorter than the branches of the second.

Sanitary and maintenance trim

Sanitary pruning is the removal of dry, damaged and diseased branches. It is carried out throughout the life of the tree, usually in late autumn or early spring.

Supportive or regulatory pruning consists in removing branches growing inside the crown, as well as in pruning the tops of young shoots by 10-12 cm (the latter is also called chasing). Such pruning is carried out at any time of the year, except winter, can be combined with the sanitary, but it can also be done in the summer.

When minting shoots, the cut should be slightly above the left kidney

Anti-aging pruning

It is carried out on old trees with the aim of rejuvenating them, extending the life span and increasing the yield.

There are two ways to rejuvenate:

• The first is the simplest. When in an adult tree the fruiting passes to the ends of the branches, the skeletal branches inside the crown are completely exposed. Such an operation will encourage the growth of new, young branches on which flower buds will be laid.
• The second way is a phased replacement of skeletal branches.
  1. To do this, choose 2-3 branches, which should be replaced, and cut them at a distance of 30 cm from the trunk.
  2. Next year, new branches will grow from the awakened buds. You need to choose one from the outside of the old branch, which will be its continuation. The rest is cut "into a ring."
  3. When the new branches grow well and begin to bear fruit, you can begin to replace others.

How to trim the crown

There are general rules for performing any type of trim:

• When performing work, only sharpened tools should be used.
• Before use, tools must be disinfected with an antiseptic.
• You can not leave hemp when removing branches, because when they rot, they will become a source of infection of a healthy branch or trunk.
• Slices must be done at right angles to the axis of the branch.
• Thick branches are cut out in parts, trying not to damage the neighboring ones.
• All sections are treated with garden var.

Diseases and pests, how to deal with them

On sunny and hot summers, you usually don’t have to worry about apricot getting sick. This usually occurs in rainy and cool seasons, when the conditions for the development of various kinds of fungi become favorable. Another reason for the occurrence of diseases and the appearance of pests is the neglect of preventive measures by the gardener. But if you timely and regularly carry out a certain list of simple preventive maintenance in the garden, then troubles can be avoided even in the rainiest years.

Preventive work, types and dates

All work on the prevention of diseases and pests is carried out in late autumn and early spring. The plant at this time should be at rest and in the absence of sap flow.

What you need to do in the fall:

• Collect and burn fallen leaves. They cannot be used for compost, since various spores of fungi, beetles, ticks, etc., almost certainly settled in them for the winter.
• Sanitary pruning and also burn remote branches. The bonus will be ash collected after burning a bonfire, which is a valuable fertilizer.
• Whiten skeletal branches and tree trunks with a solution of lime with the addition of 1% copper sulfate. This prevents burns to the bark and prevents the crawling insects from moving upward toward the crown.
  

  Whitewashing trunks and tree branches is not only beautiful, but also protects the bark from burns

• Dig up the trunk circles. So in them it will be better to linger snow, and pests wintering in the soil that will die from frost will also be raised to the surface.
• Spray the crown with 3% solution of copper sulfate or 5% solution of iron sulfate.
• Cover young trees from frost, as shown above.

Work carried out in early spring:

• Rake off snow from tree trunks.
• Inspect the crowns, if necessary, cut damaged and dry branches.
• Inspect the bark of trees; cracks from frost can appear on it. They should be well cleaned and protected with garden var.
• Perform preventive spraying of crowns with universal preparations such as DNOC, Nitrafen, etc.
• Refresh lime whitewash of trees.

What diseases are dangerous for the countess apricot

This, as mentioned above, fungal diseases that occur mainly in wet weather.

Kleasterosporiosis

The first sign of this disease is reddish-brown spots appearing on the leaves of plants. They say that on the surface of the leaves spores of the fungus that have sprouted and are rapidly developing have got. In 1-2 weeks, spots grow to impressive sizes, sometimes up to 10-15 mm. Inside the spots, the fungus eats away all the juicy flesh, it dries and crumbles, forming holes. Because of this phenomenon, the disease got its second name - holey spotting. Affected in this way, the leaves turn yellow and fall by mid-August.

During this time, the fungus also affects the fruits and shoots of the tree. If the disease is not fought, the tree weakens and can freeze in winter from severe frosts.

In the summer, klyasterolsporioz affects the fruits of apricot

But if in the spring the apricot was sprayed with nitrafen, then the disease will be much more difficult to start their dirty work. In addition, during the season, especially after rains, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments with systemic fungicides (antifungal drugs). The best are Horus, Quadrice, Skor and others. Do not forget that each drug is addictive to the fungus, and after the third treatment its effectiveness is reduced. Therefore, drugs should be alternated, processing at intervals of two weeks. Immediately before eating fruits, short-term preparations should be used. So, Quadris can be used for 3-5 days, Horus 7 days before eating fruits. If the summer is dry and there are no signs of fungus, then processing can be omitted.

Moniliosis

On apricots, it is common along with kleasterosporiosis, it only looks a little different. The first infection usually occurs when the fungal spores get into the flower, where the bees carry them. It develops quickly enough, penetrating into the flower, leaves, shoots, which as a result turn black and curl. Outwardly, it looks like frostbite or a chemical burn. Some inexperienced gardeners think so at first, therefore they do not use antifungal drugs, which leads to the rapid development of the disease. With a severe defeat, the whole tree may appear to be charred, for this reason the disease is also called a monilial burn.

As a rule, the preventive spraying, mentioned above, protect the apricot from spring infection. But if the infection did occur, then you need to immediately cut the affected shoots to 30-40 cm of healthy wood and treat the crown with fungicides.

If infection occurs in the summer, then, of course, the fungus will not pass by delicious fruits, hitting them with gray rot. This can be prevented in the same way as described above in the fight against claustosporiosis - regular spraying with systemic fungicides.

In summer, moniliosis affects apricot fruits with gray rot

Fusarium (Fusarium drying)

Favorable dry weather and neglect of the tree (poor nutrition, lack of sanitary scraps, cracks in the bark) are favorable factors for this disease. The pathogen fungus enters the plant from the soil through the root system, as a rule, this occurs during a period of abundant sap flow, which coincides with the flowering period.

The disease begins with the appearance of grayish-brown, sunken spots on the leaves, then on the fruits. The flesh under the spots becomes rotten, dry.

If the gardener wants to save such a tree, he must carry out the usual complex of combating fungal diseases, as well as take care of the healing of the tree, carry out the necessary dressing, watering, pruning.

What pests are dangerous for the countess apricot

Some pests can spoil the life of the Countess if they are not fought and prevented.

Weevil

Small beetle with a long proboscis. It has a lot of varieties. Winters in cracks of bark, leaves, soil. In early spring, leaves wintering places and heads up the trunk to young, only swollen buds, from which it begins its feast. Then leaves, flowers, ovaries and young, juicy shoots will go. It is well affected by conventional insecticides (insecticides), such as DNOC, Nitrafen, Decis, Fufanon, etc.

Weevil eats buds, leaves, flowers and apricot shoots

The beetle is very sensitive and when a person appears, immediately falls from a branch and hides in the ground. You can treat the soil with insecticides at this time. But it is better to arrive early in the morning when it is still cold and the air has not warmed above +5 ° C. In such a cold, the beetle falls asleep and sits motionless on the branches of the crown. If you spread any fabric under the tree, you can simply shake the beetles on it. Further it is clear what to do with them.

Having gained strength, the beetle lays eggs in the loose earth under a tree, from which small larvae (4-6 mm) creep out in early June. These larvae have been in the soil for about a month, while feeding on the young roots of the apricot, which brings harm to it. During this period, the use of drugs such as Diazonin is effective, which in an amount of 5-10 g / m² need to be scattered around the tree and planted in the soil. You need to do this at the end of May. The drug will act for 20 days, which is quite enough for the death of the vast majority of larvae.

Aphid

Frequent guest in gardens and gardens. It has many varieties, but it looks almost the same. On the lower surface of the leaves, a mass of small insects of black, green and other colors settle. Often ants bring it onto the tree, which subsequently feed on the sweet secretions of this insect.

Aphids multiply very quickly, eating leaves, flowers, ovaries, young shoots on their way. If it is not stopped in time, young shoots stop growing and old ones die off. Leaves curl and dry.

Aphids eat including young shoots of apricot

The use of modern insecticides helps in the fight against aphids:

• Fufanon. It begins to act 2 hours after treatment and for 7 days.
• Jaguar. Valid 1 hour after treatment and for 3 weeks.
• Actofit. Biological product. highly effective, safe for humans. Two days after processing, the fruits can be eaten.
• And other drugs.

Grade Reviews

Apricot Countess has been growing in my Zhukovsky for ten years. What can I say? Harvest began to bring on 5 year. There were then about 50 fairly large apricots. The taste is good. Especially if you look at the prices of imported apricots on the market, then your countess seems ideal))

Now we are already collecting four to five buckets. This is not bad at all. Only now he launched from the crown, he already waved about five meters. But little son upstairs, like Mowgli climbs))

Vobschem apricot satisfied.

Anton

I live in Fryazino. I planted the countess last year, my neighbor has been growing for a long time, I liked the variety, I decided to plant myself too. I want to make a good crown so that it grows not as high as that of a neighbor. I cut according to the instructions. let's see what will happen next

Monika999

Apricot Countess is a worthy variety for Central Russia. Its advantages completely exceed the disadvantages and for its region it is one of the best varieties. The variety can be safely recommended to gardeners of the Central region for planting and cultivation on their sites, but subject to the presence of nearby pollinator varieties, due to the self-sterility of the Countess.